Nuhou a me ka Pai

I kēia kau, ua kū ka ʻoihana ʻoihana Turkish i nā pilikia he nui, mai ka hoʻomau ʻana o ka pilikia Covid-19 a me ka hakakā geopolitical i nā ʻāina e pili ana, i ka hoʻomau ʻana i nā kaulahao hoʻolako, nā ʻano anuanu o ke anuanu e hoʻopau ana i ka hana a me ka pilikia o ka ʻāina, e like me ka ʻike ʻana i ke kālā kālā o Turkey. pilikia e like me ka UK's Financial Times.Ua hōʻike ka Times i ka piʻi ʻana o ka inflation i 20 mau makahiki kiʻekiʻe o 54% i Malaki i kēia makahiki.
ʻOiai ʻo kēia mau pilikia, ua hoʻokumu ʻia nā talena hoʻolālā Turkish i hōʻike i ka ikaika a me ka manaʻo maikaʻi ma Istanbul Fashion Week i kēia kau, e lawe koke i kahi hui o nā hanana a hōʻike i nā hoʻolālā e hoʻonui a hōʻoia i ko lākou noho honua i kēia kau.
ʻO nā hana kino ma nā wahi mōʻaukala e like me ka hale aliʻi ʻo Ottoman a me ka hale pule Crimean 160-makahiki e hoʻi i ka papa kuhikuhi, i hoʻopili ʻia me nā makana kikohoʻe interactive, a me nā hōʻikeʻike hou i wehe ʻia, nā kūkākūkā panel a me nā pop-up ma ka Bosphorus Puerto Galata.
ʻO nā mea hoʻonohonoho hanana - Istanbul Garment Exporters Association a i ʻole İHKİB, Turkish Fashion Designers Association (MTD) a me Istanbul Fashion Institute (IMA) - ua hui pū me Istanbul Soho House e hoʻolako i nā kamaʻāina me kahi ʻike screening ola a me nā kipa ma o nā lālā ʻoihana hoʻolaha ola. hiki i nā mea hoʻolohe ke hoʻohui pūnaewele ma o ka FWI's Digital Events Center.
Ma Istanbul, ua ʻike ʻia ka manaʻo o ka ikehu hou i ka hoʻoulu ʻana a me ka nānā ʻana i nā hana kino i ka hui pū ʻana o nā poʻe i ko lākou mau kaiāulu i ke kino i nā kūlana climatic.
"Makemake mākou i ka hui pū ʻana," wahi a ka mea hoʻolālā lole kāne ʻo Niyazi Erdoğan.
Ma lalo iho nei, hui ʻo BoF i nā mea hoʻolālā e puka mai ana a hoʻokumu ʻia i kā lākou Fashion Week hanana a me nā hanana e ʻike ai pehea i ulu ai kā lākou hoʻolaha a me nā hoʻolālā brand ma Istanbul i kēia kau.
Ua aʻo ʻo Şansım Adalı ma Brussels ma mua o ka hoʻokumu ʻana iā Sudi Etuz. ʻO ka mea hoʻolālā, nāna i hoʻokūkū i ke ala kikohoʻe-mua, ke kālele nui nei i kāna ʻoihana kikohoʻe i kēia lā a me ka hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻana i kāna ʻoihana textile. e like me nā hōʻiliʻili capsule NFT a me nā lole kino liʻiliʻi.
Hoʻokipa ʻo Şansım Adalı i kāna hōʻikeʻike ma ka Crimea Memorial Church kokoke i Galata ma Istanbul, kahi i hoʻohālike ʻia ai kāna mau hoʻolālā kikohoʻe i nā avatar digital a hōʻike ʻia ma ka pale 8-kapuaʻi. 'a'ole kūpono 'ia ka hui 'ana o ka po'e he nui. Akā, ua ho'ohana 'o ia i kāna mau hi'ohi'ona kikoho'e ma nā wahi hō'ike li'ili'i.
"He ʻike ʻokoʻa loa, loaʻa kahi hōʻike kikohoʻe ma kahi kahua kūkulu hale kahiko," haʻi ʻo ia iā BoF.Ua ʻike nā kānaka a pau e pili ana i kēia halepule, akā ʻaʻohe mea e komo. ʻAʻole ʻike ka hanauna hou i kēia mau wahi.No laila, makemake wale au e ʻike i ka hanauna ʻōpio i loko a hoʻomanaʻo i loaʻa iā mākou kēia hale hana nani.
Hoʻopili ka hōʻike kikohoʻe i ka hana keaka ola, a ʻaʻahu ka mea mele i kekahi o nā lole kino liʻiliʻi i hana ʻia e Adal i kēia lā - akā ʻo ka hapa nui, manaʻo ʻo Sudi Etuz e mālama i ka manaʻo kikohoʻe.
“ʻO kaʻu mau hoʻolālā e hiki mai ana ʻo ka mālama ʻana i ka ʻaoʻao textile o kaʻu brand i ka liʻiliʻi no ka mea ʻaʻole wau i manaʻo e pono ka honua i kahi brand hou no ka hana nui.Ke nānā nei au i nā papahana kikohoʻe.He hui kaʻu o nā ʻenekinia lolouila, nā kiʻi kiʻi kiʻi kiʻi a me nā hui kiʻi lole.ʻO Gen Z kaʻu hui hoʻolālā, a ke hoʻāʻo nei au e hoʻomaopopo iā lākou, e nānā iā lākou, e hoʻolohe iā lākou.
Ua neʻe ʻo Gökay Gündoğdu i New York e aʻo i ka hoʻokele brand ma mua o ke komo ʻana i ka Domus Academy ma Milan ma 2007. Ua hana ʻo Gündoğdu ma Italia ma mua o ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana i kāna lepili lole wahine TAGG ma 2014 - Attitude Gökay Gündoğdu.Stockists nā Luisa Via Roma a me kāna pūnaewele e-commerce, ʻo ia hoʻi. hoʻokuʻu ʻia i ka wā maʻi maʻi.
Hōʻike ʻo TAGG i ka hōʻiliʻili o kēia kau ma ke ʻano o kahi hōʻike hōʻikeʻike digitally augmented museum: "Hoʻohana mākou i nā code QR a me ka ʻoiaʻiʻo i hoʻonui ʻia e nānā i nā kiʻiʻoniʻoni ola e puka mai ana i waho o nā pale - nā ʻano wikiō o nā kiʻi paʻi, e like me kahi hōʻikeʻike kiʻi," wahi a Gündoğdu iā BoF.
"ʻAʻole wau he kanaka kikohoʻe," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia, akā i ka wā maʻi maʻi, "ʻo nā mea āpau a mākou e hana ai he digital.Hana mākou i kā mākou pūnaewele i ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi a maʻalahi hoʻi e hoʻomaopopo.Aia mākou i ka [pae hoʻokele waiwai nui] Ua hōʻike ʻo Joor i ka hōʻiliʻili ma 2019 a loaʻa i nā mea kūʻai aku hou a me nā mea hou ma US, Israel, Qatar, Kuwait.
ʻOiai ʻo kāna kūleʻa, ʻo ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana iā TAGG ma nā moʻolelo honua i kēia kau he mea paʻakikī ia.ʻAʻole au e hoʻohana maoli i nā mea moʻomeheu - ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi o koʻu aesthetic, "i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia.
Ua hoʻopilikia pū ka pilikia o ka hoʻokele waiwai i kāna mau hōʻiliʻili i kēia kau: "Ke nalowale nei ka Turkish lira, no laila ke kumukūʻai nui loa.ʻO ka lawe ʻana i nā lole mai nā ʻāina ʻē a paʻakikī.Ua ʻōlelo ke aupuni ʻaʻole pono ʻoe e hoʻokūkū i ka hoʻokūkū ma waena o nā mea hana lole haole a me ka mākeke kūloko.Pono ʻoe e uku i ka ʻauhau hou no ka lawe ʻana mai.”ʻO ka hopena, ua hui pū nā mea hoʻolālā i nā lole i lawe ʻia mai Italia a me Farani.
Ua hoʻokumu ʻo Creative Director Yakup Bicer i kāna brand Y Plus, he brand unisex, ma 2019 ma hope o 30 mau makahiki i ka ʻoihana hoʻolālā Turkish. Ua hoʻomaka ʻo Y Plus ma London Fashion Week i Pepeluali 2020.
ʻO ka hōʻiliʻili kikohoʻe o Yakup Bicer's Autumn/Winter 22-23 hōʻiliʻili ʻia e nā "mea hoʻokalakupua ʻole inoa ʻole a me kā lākou mau mea pale i ka manaʻo crypto-anarchist" a hōʻike i ka ʻōlelo o ka pale ʻana i ke kūʻokoʻa politika ma nā paepae media.
"Makemake au e hoʻomau i ka hōʻike ʻana no kekahi manawa," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia iā BoF. "E like me kā mākou i hana ai i ka wā ma mua, ʻo ka lawe pū ʻana i nā mea kūʻai aku i ka wā o ka pule hoʻolālā he manawa nui a paʻakikī i ke kālā.I kēia manawa hiki iā mākou ke hōʻea i nā wahi a pau o ka honua i ka manawa like ma ke kaomi ʻana i kahi pihi me kahi hōʻike kikohoʻe.
Ma waho aʻe o ka ʻenehana, ke hoʻohana nei ʻo Bicer i ka hana kūloko e lanakila ai i ka hoʻopau ʻana i nā kaulahao lako - a i ka hana ʻana pēlā, manaʻolana e hāʻawi i nā hana hoʻomau hou aku. pili i kā mākou kālepa holoʻokoʻa.[...] Ma ka hana pū ʻana me ka hana kūloko, ʻike mākou i kā mākou [ʻoihana] i [ʻoi aku] paʻa, a ua hoʻemi mākou i kā mākou kapuaʻi kalapona.
Ua hoʻokumu ʻo Ece lāua ʻo Ayse Ege i kā lākou brand Dice Kayek ma 1992. I hana mua ʻia ma Paris, ua hui pū ka brand i ka Fédération Française de la Couture ma 1994 a ua loaʻa iā ia ka makana Jameel Prize III, he makana honua no nā kiʻi a me nā hoʻolālā i hoʻoulu ʻia e nā kuʻuna Islam, ma 2013. Ua hoʻoneʻe hou ka brand i kāna studio i Istanbul a loaʻa iā 90 mau mea kūʻai aku ma ka honua holoʻokoʻa.
Ua hōʻike aku nā kaikuahine o Dice Kayek ʻo Ece lāua ʻo Ayse Ege i kā lākou hōʻiliʻili ʻana i ka wikiō kiʻiʻoniʻoni i kēia kau - he ʻano kikohoʻe a lākou i kamaʻāina i kēia manawa, ke hana nei lākou i nā kiʻiʻoniʻoni mai ka makahiki 2013. Wehe a hoʻi i laila. Ua ʻoi aku ka waiwai. 12 makahiki, hiki iā ʻoe ke nānā hou. Makemake mākou i kona ʻano like ʻole, "wahi a Ece iā BoF.
I kēia lā, kūʻai aku ʻo Dice Kayek ma ka honua holoʻokoʻa ma ʻEulopa, ka US, ka Middle East a me Kina. nā hōʻailona nui ma nā wahi a pau, a ʻaʻohe mea hoʻohana i ka hana ʻana i kēlā, "wahi a Ayse, nāna i ʻōlelo ka manaʻo e wehe i kahi hale kūʻai hou ma Lākana i kēia makahiki.
Ua holo mua nā kaikuahine i kā lākou ʻoihana mai Palika ma mua o ka neʻe ʻana i Istanbul, kahi i hoʻopili ʻia ai kā lākou studio i ka lumi hōʻikeʻike o Beaumonti. Ua hoʻokomo piha ʻo Dice Kayek i kā lākou ʻoihana a ʻike i ka hana ʻana i lilo i ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi, "he mea hiki ʻole iā mākou ke hana i ka wā e hana ana mākou i kahi hale hana ʻē aʻe. ”I ka lawe ʻana i ka hana i loko o ka hale, ua manaʻo nā kaikuahine i kākoʻo ʻia ka hana hana Turkish a mālama ʻia i kāna hōʻiliʻili.
ʻO Niyazi Erdoğan ka mea nāna i hoʻokumu i ka Istanbul Fashion Week 2009 a me ka Hope Pelekikena o ka Turkish Fashion Designers Association, a he kumu aʻo ma ka Istanbul Fashion Academy. Hāʻawi ʻia ka Hale Hōʻikeʻike i ka makahiki hoʻokahi.
Ua hōʻike ʻo Niyazi Erdoğan i kāna hōʻiliʻili lole kāne kāne i kēia kau: "Ke hana nei mākou i ka digitally i kēia manawa - hōʻike mākou i ka Metaverse a i ʻole NFT.Ke kūʻai aku nei mākou i ka hōʻiliʻili ma ke kikohoʻe a me ke kino, e hele ana ma nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua.Makemake mākou e hoʻomākaukau no ka wā e hiki mai ana, "i ʻōlelo ʻo ia iā BoF.
Eia nō naʻe, no ka wā e hiki mai ana, ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia, "Manaʻo wau e loaʻa iā mākou kahi hōʻike kino.ʻO ka fashion e pili ana i ke kaiāulu a me ka manaʻo, a makemake nā kānaka e hui pū.No ka poʻe noʻonoʻo, pono mākou i kēia. "
I ka wā maʻi maʻi, hana ka brand i kahi hale kūʻai pūnaewele a hoʻololi i kā lākou hōʻiliʻili i lilo i "kūʻai maikaʻi" ma ka pūnaewele, me ka noʻonoʻo ʻana i nā loli o ka makemake o nā mea kūʻai aku i ka wā maʻi maʻi. kūʻai ʻia aku i nā wahine, no laila ʻaʻohe palena.
Ma ke ʻano he kumu aʻo ma ka IMA, ke aʻo mau nei ʻo Erdogan mai ka hanauna e hiki mai ana.ʻO kaʻu ʻike, ʻo ia ka hoʻomaopopo ʻana i kā lākou pono, e hoʻolālā e pili ana i ka hoʻomau, digital, kala, ʻoki a me ke ʻano - pono mākou e hana pū me lākou.
He haumāna puka ʻo Istituto Marangoni, ua hana ʻo Nihan Peker no nā hui e like me Frankie Morello, Colmar a me Furla ma mua o ka hoʻokumu ʻana i kāna lepili inoa ma 2012, e hoʻolālā ana i nā hōʻiliʻili mākaukau, nā wahine mare a me nā couture.
I ka hoʻolauleʻa ʻana i ka makahiki 10 o ka brand i kēia kau, ua mālama ʻo Nihan Peker i kahi hōʻikeʻike ma Çırağan Palace, kahi hale aliʻi Ottoman kahiko i hoʻohuli ʻia mai kahi hōkele e nānā pono ana i ka Bosphorus. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Peker iā BoF.
"Ua liʻuliʻu wau e hōʻoia iaʻu iho i koʻu ʻāina," i hoʻohui ai ʻo Peker, ka mea i noho i ka lālani mua i kēia kau me nā mea kaulana Turkish e ʻaʻahu ana i nā hoʻolālā mai kāna mau hōʻiliʻili mua. mana ma ka Hikina Waena.
"Pono nā mea hoʻolālā Turkish āpau e noʻonoʻo i nā pilikia o ko mākou ʻāina i kēlā me kēia manawa.ʻO kaʻoiaʻiʻo, ma ke ʻano he ʻāina, pono mākou e hoʻoponopono i nā pilikia pilikanaka a me nā pilikia politika, no laila e nalowale mākou a pau i ka manawa.ʻO koʻu manaʻo i kēia manawa ma o kaʻu ʻO nā hōʻiliʻili mākaukau a me ka haute couture e hana i kahi ʻano hou o ka nani a hiki ke hana ʻia.
Ma hope o kona puka 'ana mai Istanbul Fashion Institute ma 2014, ua a'o 'o Akyuz no ke kēkelē laepua ma Menswear Design ma ka Marangoni Academy ma Milan.
I ke ono o ka hōʻike ʻana o ke kau, ua hana ʻo Selen Akyuz i kahi kiʻiʻoniʻoni i hoʻopaʻa ʻia ma Soho House ma Istanbul a ma ka pūnaewele: "He kiʻiʻoniʻoni ia, no laila ʻaʻole ia he hōʻike kiʻiʻoniʻoni, akā manaʻo wau e hana mau ana.ʻO ka manaʻo hoʻi.
Ma ke ʻano he ʻoihana maʻamau liʻiliʻi, ke kūkulu lohi nei ʻo Akyuz i kahi waihona mea kūʻai liʻiliʻi honua, me nā mea kūʻai aku i kēia manawa ma US, Romania a me Albania. , a e hoʻokokoke ana," wahi āna. "Hoʻopuka mākou i nā mea āpau ma kaʻu papa ʻaina.ʻAʻohe hana nui.Hana wau i nā mea a pau ma ka lima" - me ka hana ʻana i nā pālule, nā pāpale, nā ʻeke a me nā ʻeke "patch, leftover" no ka hoʻolaha ʻana i ka hana hoʻolālā hoʻomau.
Hoʻopili ʻia kēia ala hoʻohaʻahaʻa i kāna mau hoa hana.Paʻakikī ka loaʻa ʻana o ka poʻe akamai e hoʻohana ana i nā ʻenehana kuʻuna - palena ʻia ka lawe ʻana o nā limahana hana hou.
Ua puka 'o Gökhan Yavaş mai ka DEU Fine Arts Textile and Fashion Design i ka makahiki 2012 a ua a'o ma IMA ma mua o ka ho'omaka 'ana i kāna lepili lole kāne alanui ma 2017. Ke hana nei ka brand me nā hui e like me DHL.
I kēia kau, hāʻawi ʻo Gökhan Yavaş i kahi wikiō pōkole a me kahi hōʻikeʻike kiʻi - kāna mua i ʻekolu makahiki.Makemake mākou e hoʻomau i ka hana ʻana i nā hōʻikeʻike kino kino no ka mea ma Instagram, e paʻakikī a paʻakikī ke kamaʻilio.E pili ana i ka hui ʻana a me ka lohe ʻana mai ka poʻe he alo a he alo, "wahi a ka mea hoʻolālā.
Ke hōʻano hou nei ka brand i kāna manaʻo hana. "Ua ho'ōki mākou i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻili maoli a me ka ʻili maoli," wehewehe ʻo ia, e wehewehe ana ua hui pū ʻia nā hiʻohiʻona ʻekolu o ka hōʻiliʻili mai nā scarves i hana ʻia i nā hōʻiliʻili mua. E hoʻolālā ʻo DHL i ka lole ua e kūʻai aku i nā hui aloha kaiapuni.
He mea paʻakikī ka manaʻo hoʻomau no nā brand, a ʻo ka pilikia mua ka loaʻa ʻana o nā lole millet mai nā mea hoʻolako mai.ʻO ka lua o ka paʻakikī a lākou e kū nei, ʻo ia ka wehe ʻana i kahi hale kūʻai ma Turkey e kūʻai aku i nā lole kāne, ʻoiai nā mea kūʻai kūloko e kālele ana i ka māhele hoʻolālā lole wahine Turkish. a me Kina.
Ua hoʻokumu ʻia ʻo Bashaques brand wearable ma 2014 e Başak Cankeş. Ke kūʻai aku nei ka brand i nā lole ʻauʻau a me nā kimono me kāna hana kiʻi.
"ʻO ka maʻamau, hana wau i nā hana hana hana me nā ʻāpana kiʻi hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia," i haʻi aku ai ka luna hoʻomohala ʻo Başak Cankeş iā BoF ma hope koke o ka hōʻike ʻana i kāna hōʻiliʻili hou loa i kahi hōʻike palapala palapala 45 mau minuke ma Soho House ma Istanbul.
Hōʻike ka hōʻikeʻike i ka moʻolelo o kāna huakaʻi i Peru a me Kolombia e hana pū me kā lākou poʻe akamai, e hoʻohana ana i nā ʻano Anatolian a me nā hōʻailona, ​​​​a "e nīnau ana iā lākou pehea ko lākou manaʻo e pili ana iā Anatolian [paʻi]". hana maʻamau ma waena o ʻAsia Turkish Anatolia a me ʻAmelika Hema.
"Ma kahi o 60 pakeneka o ka hōʻiliʻili he ʻāpana hoʻokahi wale nō, i ulana lima ʻia e nā wahine ma Peru a me Anatolia," wahi āna.
Ke kūʻai aku nei ʻo Cankeş i nā mea hōʻiliʻili kiʻi ma Turkey a makemake i kekahi mau mea kūʻai aku e hana i nā hōʻiliʻili hale hōʻikeʻike mai kāna hana, me ka wehewehe ʻana "ʻaʻole makemake ʻo ia e lilo i hōʻailona honua no ka mea paʻakikī ke lilo i hōʻailona honua a hoʻomau.ʻAʻole au makemake e hana i nā ʻāpana he 10 ʻokoʻa ma mua o nā lole ʻauʻau a i ʻole nā ​​kimono.He hōʻiliʻili manaʻo noʻonoʻo a pau a mākou e kau ai ma nā NFT.ʻIke wau iaʻu iho he mea pena kiʻi, ʻaʻole hoʻi he mea hoʻolālā hana.
ʻO ka Karma Collective e hōʻike ana i ke kālena e puka mai ana o Istanbul Moda Academy, i hoʻokumu ʻia ma 2007, e hāʻawi ana i nā degere ma Fashion Design, Technology and Product Development, Fashion Management, a me Fashion Communication and Media.
"ʻO ka pilikia nui i loaʻa iaʻu ʻo ke ʻano o ke aniau, no ka mea, ua hau ka hau no nā pule ʻelua i hala iho nei, no laila, ua pilikia nui mākou i ke kaulahao lako a me ka hoʻoulu ʻana i nā lole," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo Hakalmaz iā BoF. Ua hana ʻo ia i ka hōʻiliʻili i ʻelua wale nō. nā pule no kāna lepili ʻo Alter Ego, i hōʻike ʻia ma ke ʻano he ʻāpana o ka hui Karma, a ua hoʻolālā ʻia no ka hale kiʻi Nocturne.
ʻAʻole hoʻi ʻo Hakalmaz e hoʻohana hou ana i nā ʻenehana loea e kākoʻo i kāna kaʻina hana, me ka ʻōlelo ʻana: "ʻAʻole wau makemake i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻenehana a haʻalele iā ia i ka mea hiki loa no ka mea ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hana lima e hoʻomau i ka pilina me ka wā i hala."