Nuhou a me ka Pai

ʻAʻole loa e manaʻoʻiʻo ʻo Sid Vicious i ka nui o ka waiwai o kona mau lole kahiko a e hana nui ana ka poʻe hoʻopunipuni e hoʻopunipuni.
ʻAʻole i liʻuliʻu, ua loaʻa iā Paul Gorman ka mea kākau moʻolelo moʻomeheu pop ma Lākana, ka mea kākau o The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: A Biography, a me ka mea kūʻai aku ʻo Rock Fashion Paul Gorman i kahi ʻāpana no Marr. Palu na Malcolm McLaren. ʻO ka lepili Seditionaries a Vivienne Westwood, ma kahi o 1977, no ka loiloi.
Hana ʻia ia mai muslin a loaʻa i kahi kiʻi ʻike koke ʻia e ka mea pena ʻo Jamie Reid no nā lima lima o ka Sex Pistols '"Anarchy in the UK" single.
Inā he ʻoiaʻiʻo, e kiʻi ʻia ke kumukūʻai maikaʻi ma ke kūʻai ʻana. Ma kahi kūʻai kūʻai ʻo Bonhams i Mei, ua kūʻai ʻia kahi pālule parachute ʻo Mr. McLaren lāua ʻo Ms. Westwood i ka makahiki 1977 no $6,660, me kahi lole mohair ʻeleʻele a ʻulaʻula i kālai ʻia me ka iwi poʻo. nā iwi keʻa a me "Sex Pistols" No Future "Lyrics" kūʻai aku no $8,896.
Akā naʻe, ʻaʻole maopopo ʻo Mr Gorman i ka pālule āna e loiloi nei i ka mea a ka mea nona ka ʻōlelo.
"Ua kahiko ka Muslim ma kekahi mau wahi," wahi a Mr. Gorman. ʻAʻole maikaʻi ka inika i ka makahiki 1970 a ʻaʻole i laha i ka lole. Nīnau ʻia e pili ana i ke kumu, ua hoʻihoʻi ka mea kūʻai aku i ka ʻāpana mai ka hale kūʻai aku a ʻōlelo ʻia ua kūʻai pilikino ʻia.
Welina mai i ka honua ʻokoʻa a loaʻa kālā o ka punk hoʻopunipuni. I nā makahiki he 30 i hala iho nei, e hoʻohālike ana i hana lima ʻia me nā hoʻolālā kumu e hoʻopili ana i ka S-a-M a me nā kiʻi lepo lepo, nā ʻokiʻoki hou a me nā kaula, nā kumu hoʻohālike o ka pūʻali koa, nā tweeds a me ka latex - Sid Vicious a kona mau hoa ma Anarchy ʻO ka mea i kaulana i ka wā o ka manaʻo - ua lilo iʻoihana ulu.
"Loaʻa iaʻu kekahi mau leka uila i kēlā me kēia mahina e nīnau ana inā he mea maoli kekahi mea," wahi a Steven Philip, he mea kākau moʻolelo, ʻohi a me ke kūkākūkā. "ʻAʻole wau e komo. Ke kūʻai nei nā kānaka i ke gula o ka naʻaupō. Aia mau he 500 fakes no ka mea maoli.
No ka hapalua haneli, ua wehe ʻo Mr McLaren lāua ʻo Ms Westwood i kā lāua hale kūʻai kūʻai kūʻē, Let It Rock, ma 430 King's Road, Lākana. ʻO kēlā hale kūʻai, i kapa ʻia ʻo Worlds End, ʻo ia ka wahi hānau o ke ʻano alanui. ʻO nā mea nona nā mea hoʻolālā nāna i wehewehe. ke kahua punk.
I loko o nā makahiki he 10 e hiki mai ana, ua hoʻololi ʻia ka hale kūʻai i Sex and Seditionaries, e hōʻike ana i kahi hiʻohiʻona a me ke kani i loaʻa nā hopena lōʻihi a no laila hiki ke hōʻiliʻili ʻia. o "Vivienne Westwood Catwalk." "He pōkole kā lākou manawa hana, pipiʻi nā lole, a kūʻai nā kānaka a ʻaʻahu a hiki i ka wā e hāʻule ai."
He nui nā hana kumu o Dior lāua ʻo Fendi, ʻo Kim Jones, a manaʻoʻiʻo ʻo "Westwood a me McLaren i hana i ka hoʻolālā no nā lole hou. He poʻe ʻike lākou, "wahi āna.
He nui nā hale hōʻikeʻike e hōʻiliʻili i kēia mau mea. ʻO Michael Costiff, ka mea hoʻolalelale, ka mea hoʻolālā hale a me ka mea mālama o ka World Archives for Dover Street Market Stores, he mea kūʻai mua ʻo Mr. McLaren lāua ʻo Ms. Westwood. ʻO nā lole 178 āna i hui pū ai me kāna wahine ʻo Gerlinde, Aia i kēia manawa i ka hōʻiliʻili o ka Hale Hōʻikeʻike ʻo Victoria a me Albert, nāna i kūʻai aku i ka hōʻiliʻili a Mr Costiff i ka makahiki 2002 no ka £42,500 mai ka National Art Collection Fund.
ʻO ka waiwai o ka vintage McLaren a me Westwood e hoʻolilo iā lākou i pahuhopu no nā mea pōā.
"No loko mai kēia ʻāpana o ke ao noʻeau," wahi a Paul Stolper, he hale kiʻi kiʻi ma Lākana nona ka hōʻiliʻili nui o nā hana punk mua i kēia manawa i ka Metropolitan Museum of Art." ʻO Guevara a i ʻole ʻo Marilyn, ua hoʻopau ʻia ma o kā mākou moʻomeheu. Ua wehewehe ʻo Sex Pistols i kahi au, no laila ke hana mau nei nā kiʻi. "
A laila aia nā mea hoʻopunipuni i ʻike ʻia, e like me ka T-shirt ʻo Fruit of the Loom e hōʻike ana i kahi Mickey Mouse i kau ʻia ma ke keʻa, a i ʻole ka $190 "SEX original" pōkole hoʻopaʻa mai A Store Robot ma Tokyo i hiki ke ʻike maʻalahi ʻia he kumu ʻole, No ka mea. ka lole hou a me ka ʻoiaʻiʻo ʻaʻole i hana maoli ʻia kēia ʻano i nā makahiki 1970. Ua piha ka mākeke Iapana i nā mea hoʻopunipuni.
I ka makahiki i hala, ua loaʻa ʻo Mr Gorman i kahi lole i kapa ʻia ʻo "Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt" ma eBay ma UK, āna i kūʻai ai ma ke ʻano he hihia no ka £100 (ma kahi o $139).
"He laʻana hoihoi ia o ka hoʻopunipuni," wahi āna. "ʻAʻole i loaʻa. Akā ʻo ka hoʻohui ʻana i ka ʻōlelo 'Destruction' a me ka hoʻāʻo ʻana e hoʻohana i ke ʻano kiʻi kiʻi i makemake nui ʻia i hōʻike ʻia ma ke ʻano kūʻē i ka moʻomeheu i alakaʻi i ke ala o McLaren a me Westwood. Hoʻohana au i ka ʻoihana Ua hōʻoia nā mea paʻi he mea hou nā inika, e like me ka humuhumu T-shirt.
ʻO ka wahine kāne make a Mr McLaren, ʻo Young Kim, ua hana nui i nā makahiki e mālama i kāna hoʻoilina a me kāna hoʻoilina. he hoopunipuni. He liʻiliʻi nā lole mua. Ua hoʻokomo ʻo Malcolm iā ia a me Vivienne. Nui ka nui o nā lole i ka Met a kūpono i nā pre-punks o kēia lā.
Aia kekahi mau hōʻailona ʻē aʻe. Aia ka humuhumu ʻana ma luna o ke kāʻei, ʻaʻole i loko, e like me ka mea i hana ʻia ma ke kapa i hana maikaʻi ʻia. A he mea hou loa ka D-ring.
ʻO ka hana i loko o ka Met's 2013 "Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture" hōʻike ʻia i ka nānā ʻana ma hope o ka haʻi ʻana o Ms. King lāua ʻo Mr. Gorman i ka lehulehu e pili ana i nā mea i ʻōlelo ʻia he hoʻopunipuni a me nā mea like ʻole o ka hōʻike.
Akā, aia nā nīnau e pili ana i ka hana i komo i loko o ka hale hōʻikeʻike ʻewalu makahiki ma mua. ʻO nā hiʻohiʻona ka lole hoʻopaʻa i hōʻike nui ʻia ma ka hōʻike "Anglomania" 2006, pili i ka mea kūʻai kahiko kahiko ma Lākana ʻo Simon Easton, a me ka hui hoʻolimalima kahiko o Westwood a me McLaren Punk ʻO Pistol Collection, nāna i hoʻolako i nā stylist a me nā mea hana kiʻiʻoniʻoni, a me ka 2003, Iraqi Mr. Stone a me kāna hoa ʻoihana, ʻo Gerald Bowey, i hoʻokumu i ka hale hōʻikeʻike ma ka pūnaewele.
"I ka makahiki 2015, ʻelua mau ʻāpana McLaren-Westwood i kā mākou hōʻiliʻili i hoʻoholo ʻia he hoʻopunipuni," wahi a Andrew Bolton, ka luna alakaʻi ma ka Metropolitan Costume Institute." Ua hoʻihoʻi ʻia nā hana. Ke hoʻomau nei kā mākou noiʻi ma kēia wahi. "
Ua hoʻouna ʻo Mr Gorman iā Mr Bolton i kekahi mau leka uila i ʻōlelo ai ua pilikia nā hana ʻē aʻe o ka moʻo, akā ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mr Gorman ʻaʻole i pane hou aku ʻo Mr Bolton iā ia. Ua hōʻole ʻo Bolton e hāʻawi i kekahi ʻōlelo hou no kēia ʻatikala.
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mr Easton, ʻaʻole ia e ʻōlelo no kēia ʻatikala, ma ka leka uila e ʻōlelo ana ʻo Mr Bowie nona, akā ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻopau ʻia kona inoa ma ka moʻolelo punk hoʻopunipuni. i manaʻo ʻia e ka poʻe he kumu waihona waihona hilinaʻi no nā hoʻolālā kumu McLaren a me Westwood.
Eia nō naʻe, ʻōlelo ʻo Mr Bowie, ʻoiai ʻo kā lākou hana maikaʻi loa e hōʻoia i ka hōʻiliʻili ʻana, "ʻo ke ʻano haphazard i hana mua ʻia ai nā lole i hana mua ʻia, hana ʻia a hana hou ʻia. I kēia lā, ʻoiai me nā papa inoa kūʻai kūʻai, nā loaʻa a i kekahi mau hihia mai ka palapala hōʻoia a Westwood, ua hoʻopaʻapaʻa mau kēia mau lole.
Ma ka lā 9 o Kepakemapa, 2008, ua hoʻomaopopo mua ʻia ʻo Mr. McLaren no ka nui o ka hoʻopunipuni e hoʻopuni ana iā ia a me Ms. Westwood ma o ka leka uila inoa ʻole i hoʻouna ʻia e Mr. Gorman no kēia ʻatikala a hōʻoia ʻia e Ms. Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Ma hope o nā hōʻike, hoʻouka nā mākaʻi i nā hale ma Croydon a me Eastbourne, kahi i loaʻa ai iā lākou nā ʻōwili o nā lepili hoʻonāukiuki," wahi a ka leka uila. Welina mai e Mr Grant Howard a me Mr Lee Parker.
Ua hoʻokolokolo ʻia ʻo Grant Champkins-Howard, he DJ i kēia manawa ma lalo o ka inoa ʻo Grant Dale, a me Lee Parker, he paipu, ma ka ʻAha Hoʻokolokolo ʻo Kingston i Iune 2010, wahi a Judge Susan Matthews. He "kahiko wahaheʻe" lākou. Ua hoʻoukaʻia kā lākou waiwai i ka makahiki 2008 e ka Metropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad a hopuʻia i ka hoʻounaʻana i nā lole McLaren a me Westwood hoʻopunipuni a me nā mea pili, a me 120 paʻi Banksy.
Ma hope mai, ua hewa lāua ʻelua no ka hoʻopunipuni ʻana i ka hana a Banksy. Ua noi ʻia ʻo McLaren, ka mea nāna i hana i nā lole Sex and Seditionaries mua e hōʻike, e nānā i nā mea i hopu ʻia a kuhikuhi i nā hōʻailona he hoʻopunipuni nā lole: hewa ʻole ka nui o ka stencil lettering, nā lole like ʻole, ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka YKK ma mua o nā zippers branded Lightning. , ka hoʻohui ʻana i nā kiʻi hewa a me ka lole keʻokeʻo kahiko.
"Ua huhū ʻo ia," wahi a Ms King. "Ua manaʻo nui ʻo ia i ka pale ʻana a me ka pale ʻana i kāna hana. He mea waiwai ia iā ia. Ma hope o ka haki ʻana o ka hui ʻana ma waena o Mr McLaren a me Ms Westwood i ka makahiki 1984, aia kahi kūlana kiʻekiʻe lōʻihi ma waena o lāua ʻAʻole i hoʻoholo ʻia ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa, a ua hoʻokumu ka ʻāʻī i kahi hakahaka no nā mea hoʻopunipuni.
Ua hoʻopaʻi ʻia ʻo Mr Howard lāua ʻo Mr Parker ma ka hihia Banks, akā ua hoʻokuʻu ʻia ka hihia lole hoʻopunipuni i ka wā i make ai ʻo Mr McLaren i ka makahiki 2010 no ka mea he hōʻike nui ʻo ia no ka hoʻopiʻi ʻana ma ke kahua.
Eia naʻe, ua ʻike ʻia ua hana ʻole a hoʻoulu paha ka ʻohana o Ms Westwood i ka ʻoihana punk hoʻopunipuni. .
"Ua hana hou mākou i ka pālule iwi moa a me ka pālule 'Venus'," wahi a Mr. Corré. .” Ma mua o kēia mau kikoʻī kikoʻī a pipiʻi hoʻi, ua kaupalena ʻia ka hana hou ʻana o nā hana i nā silkscreens i ʻike ʻia ma nā T-shirts kūʻai nui, wikiwiki ka wikiwiki o ka hana, a ʻoi aku ke kumukūʻai.
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Mr. Corré, ua laikini ʻo Vivienne Westwood i nā reproductions. Ua huhū ʻo McLaren. Ma kahi leka uila i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka lā 14 ʻOkakopa 2008 i kahi hui me ka mea kākau moʻolelo ʻo Steven Daly, kākau ʻo Mr McLaren: “Na wai i ʻae iā lākou e hana i kēia? Ua ʻōlelo au iā Joe e kū koke a kākau iā ia . Huhu au.
ʻO Mr. Corré, ka mea i lilo i luna o ka Vivienne Foundation, "hoʻohana i ke kuleana kope o kāna hana ma ke ʻano aloha e loaʻa kālā no nā kumu like ʻole." Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia e ʻimi ʻo ia pehea e "hoʻopau ai" i ka hoʻopunipuni. Ke hoʻomau nei ʻo Ms King i ka hakakā no ka hoʻoilina o Mr McLaren a manaʻoʻiʻo ʻo ia e holoi pinepine ʻia mai kāna moʻolelo ponoʻī.
E kūʻai mau ana kā Mr. Easton lāua ʻo Mr. Bowey i nā hana a Ms. Westwood lāua ʻo Mr. McLaren ma o ka hale kūʻai Etsy SeditionariesInTheUK, ʻo ka hapa nui o ia mau mea he palapala hōʻoia mai ka Hui ʻo Vivienne Westwood, i pūlima ʻia, hoʻolālā ʻia a mālama ʻia e Murray Blewett. Loaʻa kēia mau pālule ʻoniʻoni me nā kola Peter Pan a me nā pale siliki huli ʻia ʻo Karl Marx, a me nā pālule pulupulu-rubber Levi.
ʻAʻole koʻikoʻi ka pūnaewele e like me ka hapa nui o nā hale kūʻai, a ʻaʻole lākou e ʻōlelo no kēia ʻatikala, akā ʻōlelo lākou he mau hana wale nō me ka hōʻike ʻana i ka pōkā, ʻo ia hoʻi nā kiʻi o ka mea nona nā lole i nā makahiki 1970.
"He mea nui e hoʻomaopopo i ka nui o ka poʻe i hōʻeha ʻia i ka hoʻopunipuni ʻana he poʻe makemake ʻia," wahi a Mr Gorman. ʻO ia ke ʻano o ke ʻano, ʻeā? ʻO nā mea a pau i alakaʻi ʻia e ka makemake.